To Extract or not to Extract.......

Extractions. What most people love or hate about a facial.  Extractions are designed to remove those pesky blackheads, milia or pimples.  It's not the most comfortable thing to have done, but some people love this part because they feel it makes their skin feel more clean. I hear so often, "I just need a facial because I have so many blackheads that need to be extracted.  Could you spend a lot of time extracting?"  Sure, I can!  However, I will let you know that it can actually do more harm to your skin than good. 

Here's the deal.  If your skin is in good condition, you shouldn't need extractions.  Of course, you might get an occasional blemish here and there, or feel oilier during different times of the year, but if the skin is healthy, there is no reason to put your skin through that kind of trauma.  I used to be a big believer in extractions.  I couldn't wait to get that tool in my hand and go to town.  The more blackheads I got out, the better.  The client would leave with less blackheads or pimples, but would have more redness and blotchiness to the skin.  That didn't seem right.  After a facial, your skin should look healthier, more balanced and radiant. 

It wasn't until I was discussing this issue with a highly educated skin care collegue that I realized how bad it can be for the skin.  First of all, pimples should never be "popped."  I know it's tempting, but what can happen if you "pop" a pimple is create an environment for more bacterial growth, scarring and pigment discoloration.  When you have a pimple, there is already inflammation present and the skin has created a protective barrier to prevent more bacteria from invading the area.  If I break that skin, that is not only going to lead to more inflammation and redness, but I can also push that bacteria deeper into the skin creating a much larger infection.  Not to mention damaging that delicate skin which will now have to form scar tissue. Yikes!  The best way, in my opinion to get rid of pimples, is to use a good spot treatment with either benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or sulfur.  By doing that for a few days it will help to kill the p.acne bacteria and reduce the inflammation.  Don't go to crazy though, because overuse of those ingredients can dry the skin too much and lead to more irritation.  If you don't have any of those ingredients, try mixing a paste of baking soda with distilled water.  Apply it to the blemish and use a warm compress to help draw the fluid/pus out of the skin.  I know it sounds gross, but it works and will not lead to scarring.

For blackheads, there are some cases where I can gently extract areas with an abudnace of them.  I usually do this after using an alkaline based product with steam to soften the skin so removal is much easier.  I don't care for extracting blackheads on clients with thinner skin with capillary damage.  Extracting can lead to more damage of the capillary walls in those cases.  Using a gentle exfoliant 3 times a week (no more) can help prevent blackheads from occuring.  Also, avoiding products that contain heavy oils, paraffin, petroleum because they can clog pores.

Lastly, PLEASE DO NOT PERFORM EXTRACTIONS ON YOURSELF AT HOME!  This is a big one!  I have yet to see a client make his/her skin better by attempting to do their own extractions.